Austrian Antics (Carinthia)

Thus far, we have seen many regions of the Alps.  Whether Bavarian, Swiss or Austrian, they are all uniquely stunning and each region has it’s own personality based on geologic features, hiking paths, accessibility, huts, historical features and summit elevations.  We especially loved the rugged, craggy, exposed limestone of the Julian Alps. We spent much of our Austrian/ Julian Alps’ time with lots of people and always being active.  If we weren’t hiking, climbing, camping or boating, we were eating and socializing. It was purely coincidental that we were staying in a small Austrian village during the Euro Bike Week.  Will would describe this as the ‘Sturgis of Europe’.  There were 13,000 Harley’s on parade around the Faaker See on Saturday. We missed that(I think we were glad). 

This portion of the trip was about being with the local people.  The folks we knew and those we met were so fun, very inclusive, accommodating and hell bent on showing us a good time.  They all live and work in the Carinithia region of Austria. Caritithia consists of many small villages nestled in between two big cities Klagenfurt and Villach . It is populated by folks who were born there and have lived there for generations.  They are mountain people who love to be active in the outdoors EVERYDAY.  Socializing together is very important to their livelihood and we enjoyed being immersed in their culture and will remember all the wonderful new friends we made.

We love you Volte, Ulli, Louisa, Matius, Lenka, Max, Mark, MiMi, Martine, Monica, Micah, Milo, Karen, Marianne, Timo, Simon and Jacob!

Day 1:  We arrived late the evening before and were greeted by 14 year old  Simon.  He had prepared the most delicious plum dumplings ( knödel bread) for our dinner.  We were awakened early and headed to our first hike with host and longtime friend Volte Mak and his girlfriend, Ulli.  They took us to the beautiful Dobratschb National Park with many hiking choices.  On our way to the summit, Volte and Will did a few short climbs and we all met at the hut on the summit later.  At the summit, resides a big, beautiful hut and the two highest churches still standing and used sparingly.

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   Day 2:  Relaxing day at the local climbing crag at Feistritz Em Rosenthal.  Will was just happy to climb.  Volte was just happy to have a partner.  Bon was just happy to hike and work on the blog!

Day 3:  A very early start with Volte took us to The Karawanken hiking and climbing area.  We hiked  up and up together to the multi pitch climbing approach.  I let the guys do the last bit of approach in the slippery skree.  I watched until they were out of sight and then hiked solo back to the hut.  I added an additional 90 minutes to my hike and then waited with my Kindle and a latte.  They returned a few hours later.  We celebrated their successful summit and my solo descent by feasting THE BEST DUMPLINGS EVER and an ice cold beer.  A fabulously exhausting day!

Day 4 & 5: Somewhat leisurely start to a 2 day camping trip in the Soca River Valley in Slovenia.  We drove through Austria, passed through Italy and into Slovenia. We met our two other camper vans at a private camping area on the river…. ‘Glamping’ if you ask me.   This is a very famous River for two reasons.  1.  It is the most intense turquoise blue in color and while it looks warm and hot springs like…. It is the coldest water I have ever been in.  I did NOT swim.  2.  It is home to a rare species of trout called the marble trout.  They reside ONLY IN THIS RIVER.  A fishing license is extremely expensive and it is also very expensive if you order this trout in a resaraunt. Folks come from all over the world to fish for this trout.  Camping was very social with lots of swimming, boating, jumping and eating.  We were surprised when a mobile market drove around the camp ground playing the classic ice cream truck music.  A grocery store on wheels with fresh, warm bread and anything you needed to cook or eat!  We had perfect weather both days!

Day 6:  We visited Klagenfurt today and had lunch in the oldest eating establishment in the city.  The waitresses were really brash and loud (typical, supposedly) and we had some tasty traditional food and the best goulash in town.  We hit the grocery store and bought provisions for our BBQ tonight and I bought a boutique!

Day 6:  It was a rainy, dreary day.  We worked on the computer and went to Voltes’ bouldering gym.  Later we picked up a couple of friends and headed to the Harley Davidson gathering at the Faaker See.  It was a very wild evening that included great music, awesome people watching and thousands of motorbikes…. Really big bikes, beautiful bikes, fascinating bikes and unbelievably crazy machines.  We were out until 1:00 AM, which is a record for us.  We had a blast!

Day 7,8,9:  These last three days were spent hiking to huts in perfect weather.  Hut hiking is the best because you know you get a treat at the end when you reach the hut at the summit.  Thursday was the best treat,though, as we had dinner at Ulli’s and she prepared a fabulous traditional Austrian meal.  Our feast included: Käsnudel, reindling and pohaca!  (Stuffed noodles, soup and deliciously sweet cake). Thanks Ulli!  Our last evening was spent at a favorite local village eatery. Every two weeks, there is a fish frenzy and a social gathering of locals ( we are locals now).  Will and I could not decide and ordered the combo plate for two.  The fish was so incredible and Will is not-particularly a fan, but he still describes it as the best fish he has had EVER!!!!  What a SUPER way to end our ten day stay.  Thanks to our new and forever friends for all the activity, food and fun.