The Devil Made Me Do It. (Tasmania)

I don’t really want to compare NZ to Tazmania , but I must.  They are SO different.  In their own right, they are both fantastic!  They would not say nice things about each other, but I can…. just not sure which way the pendulum will swing for me when it is all said and done:

TAZZIE:                                                                                                       *Dry, golden, sparse, rocky  landscape                                                                    *food and drink very expensive                                                                  *creepy crawlers, bugs,& mosquitos                                                             *flora and fauna outstanding, abundant                                                                           *small nocturnal creatures everywhere                                                          *birds are plentiful and very vocal                                                           *camping and national parks NOT free                                           *surrounded by the stunning Tasman Sea                                                    *wild, edgy, rugged and rough coastline with clean and sparsely populated white sand beaches                                                                                                               *some road kill and which is cleaned by the scavenger birds and Tasmanian Devils                                                                                                       *fairly good roads                                                                                                *Lots of one piece bathing suits                                                                    *leg tattoos are super popular                                                                         *lots of snakes, venomous snakes, poisonous creepy crawlers                  *look out the window and see a wallaby                                                        *Tazzies’ speak proper English and rarely use aboriginal language  or aboriginal words                                                                                                              *Gum tree/ eucalyptus tree forests/ incredibly tall trees and huge ferns                                                         *hobbits….maybe one                                                                                *food is very good                                                                                                        * people are a little more coarse around the edges… can be lewd, loud   AND very hospitable, sometimes helpful, friendly and fun.                                      *Across the board, more expensive products                                         *more rain, but warmer temps

KIWI:                                                                                                                    * Wet, green,lush,dense, fresh.                                                                            * food and drink ridiculously astronomical                                                                   * NO creepy crawlers,  BUT horrifying sandflies                                         *flora (fern capital of the world ) and fauna   ( none to speak of)                                         *nuisance creatures: possum and skoat                                                                     * bird population way down due to possums eating eggs, beautiful bird songs in the forest                                                                                                  * free camping, free national parks                                                   *surrounded by the stunning Tasman Sea                                                    *road kill is everywhere and not cleaned often                                              *rugged, edgy, wild coastline…great surfing; fewer stretches of white sand beaches                                                                                                    *bikinis only                                                                                                       * piercings and not so many tattoos                                                                 *no snakes, no poisonous creepies , nothing is ever going to get you.                                                                    *look out the window and see a sandfly                                                         * less rain, but colder, chilly                                                                    *Kiwis speak English but Maori language used often for towns, streets, places  and in conversation                                                                       *Kiwi accent harder to discern                                                                         * hobbit land, enchanting forests                                                                   *beech tree forests                                                                                *nothing special about the food ( lamb is good, cottage cheese so good)                                                                           *people are very polite, generous and proper, kind, welcoming

WE hit the ground running in Tasmania and, it seems, we are still running from one thing to the next and from one place to the next and trying to do it all.  We only have 3 weeks??? go,go,go

Here is how it all shook out:

  1.  Hobart (3 days,3 words & 3 memories)Energy, Trendy, Quaint.  MONA Museum, Mt Wellington, mussels at the Wharf.
  2. Freycinet National Park (4 days, 4 words and 4 memories):  Scenic, solitude, friendly, cool ass rock.  Stunning sunsets, beautiful empty beaches, electric BBQ’s,  Wallabies
  3. Port Arthur (one day, one word, one memory):  Harsh ( the history), April 1996 (mass shooting)
  4. Three Capes Trek (3 days, 3 words, 3 memories). Breathtaking, staggering, epic.  Wombat, moonrise, Totempole Rock
  5. Tullah (3 days, 3 words, 3 memories.) Nothing-ness, ghost town, empty.  Beautiful lake overlook, golden buttongrass, mountain views.
  6. Cradle Mountain ( 1 day, 1 word, 1 memory):  Overcast.  Weathered off the climb and disappointed?
  7. Queenstown and Strahan ( rainy day activity).  (1 day, 2 places, 2 words, 2 memories):   (Q) Mining, (S) Resort.  (Q) A step back in time…boom and bust mining. (S) Hells Gate into McQuarie Harbour.
  8. Mt Fields National Park: (1 day, 1 word , 1 memory):  Government Hut.  Birds, critters, forests, snow gum trees, moon, stars, mist….so memorable.  Not enough time.
  9. Ferry to Bruny Island: ( 3 days, 3 words, 3 memories):  uninhabited,  beaches, silence.  Wallaby burger, afterglow on the Tasman Sea, The Fluted Cape hike.                                                                                                                 When it was all said and done, we were satisfied but exhausted.  We did a lot of driving to see as much as we could of this beautiful wilderness and we were able to visit eight national parks. We left some things undone and will come back to do:  Overland Track, Frenchmans Cap, Bay of Fire. We will search for the elusive white wallaby and sneaky platypus.  We would re-visit the MONA museum to see new exhibits.  The museums in all of Tasmania  are phenomenal.                                                                          One can’t choose their favorite child or grand child.  So it is with New Zealand and Tasmania.  We ❤?❤?love them both equally.  However, I will take the mosquito bite over the sandfly bite anyday!                           Good bye Tazzie Land.   We are ready for our next wilderness experience in The Blue Mountains outside of Sydney on mainland Australia.  Then, four luxurious and expensive days exploring Sydney and Bondi Beach.  So excited!
Classic Australian landscape. Sunset on Mt Wellington just outside of Hobart, Tasmania.
Downtown Hobart proper. Historical and fantastic museums.
Battery Point, Hobart. Trendy area.
Salamanca Market. A favorite hang for the university students. An outstanding Saturday Market and every night serves up cool energy, fun pubs and trendy eateries.
From the top of Wellington mountain, sunset over Hobart.
The most spectacular and provacative museum experience ever! MONA. Museum of New and Old ( privately owned)
Green table ( I want to make one of these). MONA
At the MONA

 

Polka dots and mirrors can be confusing…. and fun!

 

Liquid Rug…. one of my favorites at MONA

 

My Wellington sunset, Hobart! Sun Salutation.
Freycinet Coastline . Eastern coast of Tasmania.
Freycinet National Park. View of The Nuggets from the Lighthouse.
Freycinet National Park
Love these electric BBQs everywhere in Australia. Free and the rangers clean them daily!
This is the real color of these fabulous grasses!
Nice haircut, dude…. who is your stylist?
“Kookaburra sits in the ole gum tree”…anyone else remember this cute nursery school song?? Blue gum tree.
Fascinated by these gum trees /eucalyptus leaves. In autumn the trunk reveals its true beauty by shedding its brown skin to this brilliant yellow
Pink Berries. That is the name of the bush!
The incredibly well preserved penal colony at Port Arthur. The worst of the worst. Harsh treatment for the second offenders. No escaping this place.
Non denominational church. Prisoners could attend services as this colony was one of rehabilitation intentions.
The gardens were built so the women of the prison workers and diplomats had a place to walk, gather and have tea… still a miserable place to raise a family.
Wheel at the window. Entire colony was built by the convicts. Mid 1800’s. In April 1996, the world remembers the horrific mass shooting on the grounds… many lost their lives… likened to our 9 – 11. One difference…. Australia immediately made gun possession legislation changes…… hmmmmmmm???
Three Capes Track. Huts are fantastic.
On the track…. mystical.
Coastline…. dramatic.
Surrounded by the Tasman Sea.
Rock towers, edges, massive drops.
Looking at Tasman Island from the track.
This rock, though.
Soaked but still smiling. Wet and wild three days.
Moon rise on the last night. Gaming in the huts.
Three Capes Track. The beginning.
Sharp and Stacky Cape Raoul.
Three Capes Track. The end.
New and fun friends. Kip and Marete from Melbourne. Sure wish we were going there!
The daunting and famous rock climb. Totempole.
Bloody leeches. They will suck you dry???
The Thrill showing off… wow, his flexibility!
The blue gum tree forest. Perspective.
Spider spinning a perfect web.
A hobbit chair…..in Tasmania?????
Best siting of the trek…. Hello Mr. Wombat!
The devil made me do it….the elusive Tasmanian Devil. Now, endangered due to a facial cancer that has inflicted huge population of devils and they are dying out. So sad.
Spotted Quoll. They are really beautiful, but deadly. They are good hunters and can bite the back of a wallobys’ neck and kill it. Ouch!
Black Currawang….yacking!
Echidna….harmless and so cute!
Echidna… we only saw two.
Historical Queenstown. Boom and bust mining town. Very little has changed.
Colorful forest walk to Nelson Falls.
Nelson Falls.
Frenchmans Cap. Difficult to get into this special area due to muddy and tough terrain. Recently the track has been improved and the hike is two to three days in. We did not do it….. next time.
The “one at a time” suspension bridge is the start of the Frenchmans Cap track. It is the original bridge.
Driving along the Lyell Highway in the central highlands of Tasmania, the Australian buttongrass boasts its golden hues announcing Autumn.
This snow gum tree at Mt Fields National Park is just so unique and stunning. The bark peels off to renew the trunk with a new layer of color and texture. I love these gum trees.
This is the scene driving out of Tullah. Tullah was a big nothing, but the roads leading in and out and around were exceptionally beautiful and included diverse landscapes.
Pandemelon and wallaby live harmoniously. They are nocturnal and they are everywhere. Sweet, non confrontational, not skiddish.
Morning mist at our government hut. One of the most memorable nights in Tasmania. No electricity, a small fire place and bunk beds. Simple, but so perfectly quiet, scenic and nostalgic.
Waiting for my turn at the poop hut, but lovely view framed in by the moss, bush and the ” ole gum tree”.
Can you see our hut down deep in the bush? We loved being tucked away from everything and everyone.
Some of the biggest and tallest trees exist in Mt Fields National Park. These are gum trees!
eucalyptus leaves reaching for the sun…. growing taller and taller.
Russell Falls at Mt Fielding. The light here in the morning was phenomenal….not to mention the ferns!
I can’t resist a good barre!
Mt Fields National Park. We never tire of these forests.
These stairs divide Bruny Island into the South and North Island. All the fun and this solitary stretch of beach (next photo)is on the South Island. Guess where we went?
White sand beach of the Tasman Sea with Adventure Bay in the background. South Bruny
It was a short walk to this awesome beach from our tiny cottage ( airbnb).
Just before sunset, we are taking a much needed break.
Bruny Island sunset at the D’EntreCaseau channel.  Mainland Tasmania in the background.
Sunset.
That afterglow on the channel never gets old.
To note the beginning of the Fluted Cape hike, a garden of Cairns. Art or graffiti???????
Half way up the hill, we get a view of the Fluted Cape viewpoint. We still have some uphill to go!
Fluted Cape hike. Many pauses for photos and to catch our breath??
Take the boat cruise for $100.00 per person OR hike to the viewpoint for free…..duh!
The end of the hike ends at the Tasman Sea shoreline. Nice!
Will the Thrill had his bathing suit and took his last dip in the sea.
Looking rugged dude and a bit pensive……..
Hike up to the historical Bruny Island Lighthouse. Built in the 1830’s by convicts, of course. Lovely place to watch the sun set and we did.
Sunset at the Lighthouse and then the race down to see if we could get the sky glow after…. not fast enough☹️
Just had to mention the food or rather, the meat. I have been a non meat eater for years, but have discovered on this trip that there is power, energy and weight loss associated with good lean protein. It all started in South Africa with an Ostrich steak. Then, this amazing lamb shank in New Zealand……..

 

…..to this DELISH wallaby/lamb burger. This was so good, but I did not eat the bread. The chutney was to die for???

Author: bonnie.pierce@gmail.com

Retired School teacher.

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