Do you like quiet beaches and refreshing water (not cold, not warm) for swimming?
Do you love the taste of Truffles (not the chocolate ones)?
Do you like ancient hilltop villages with amazing scenery, charm, history and cobblestone streets?
Do you like green countryside, fresh autumn colors, gorges spliced by turquoise rivers?
Do you like art, music, paintings, or handcrafted jewelry?
Do you like climbing; do you like limestone crags?
Do you love using the best olive oil when you cook?
Do you like fine wine; do you like wine tasting; do you like looking at vineyards scattered everywhere with every type of grape?
Do you like the low season without a million tourists in your space?
How about strolling, hiking, mountain biking….. Relaxing, perhaps?
If you said YES to any of these questions, then Istra, Croatia in September is the place for you!
Mitch, Will and I desperately needed a motorbike de briefing, a place to call home for more than one night, a chance to slowly assimilate back into normal life. We needed DOWN time, FUN time and ALONE time. We found the Istra Region and hunkered down in an apartment in Rovinj. We are close but not too close to the city or the beach. We are very close to climbing and many hilltop villages of interest and beauty. We have a nice car and can get anywhere, anytime.
“With a strong Italian influence, Istra is a beautiful region of Croatia both along the coast and inland. Bordering Slovenia and with a maritime border with Italy, this peninsula is easy to reach from the rest of Europe. It is the largest peninsula in the Adriatic sea.”
The history is complicated and this is an area that has been pillaged by the Romans and later, the Goths and influenced heavily by the Venetians. The hilltop villages that still remain cover this area and were all built with the same idea….protection. Today, the villages can be visited and they all have different appeal. We had to choose what we thought would be the most scenic drives and select the three villages that would appeal to us the most. We decided to base in the popular coastal village of Rovinj. It didn’t hurt that there were climbing crags close by. A few crags at the seaside of Rovinj and a couple more along a beautiful gorge called the Limski Kanal. Our mantra: climb in the shade, then hit the beach and swim afterwards. Dinner out or maybe cook in. We went into Rovinj one evening and walked the cobblestone streets and alleys. I was looking for particular jewelry shop and found it. Yes, of course, I spent money there. There are many shops mostly owned by local artists. This region of Croatia is known for local and international artisans who have studios above their shops. There were more tourists here than we anticipated, so we did not wander long. The promenade was lit with a glorious sunset and the yachting community was putting their anchors down. It was a perfect time to make an exit.
Of the four crags we found, climbing in Rovinj was our favoriteColorful Rovinj sits partly on the sea and up, up the cobblestone to the hilltop.Crafty shopping on cobblestone. Four long narrow alleys lead to the church at the hilltop.A lovely seaside park follows the sea offering numerous places to choose your own private area to sunbathe and swim. Climbing is 100 meters behind us.
We spent an entire day traveling inland and chose the hilltop villages of Motovun, Buzet and Groznjan as our targets. Our drive included many vineyards, castle sightings, autumn colors making their debut and plenty of rock and crags that kept the boys gawking for sure. Motovun was high and beautiful and the overlooks were spectacular. We also walked narrow,cobbled streets with fewer tourists and more truffle shops than one can imagine. It is truffle hunting season and thousands of people head out with their dogs and pigs to find this elusive fungi. Usually starts end of September and goes on through October. Apparently, truffles are worth the big bucks….a thousand big ones per one kilo of this special mushroom. But, they are very difficult to find. Trained pigs are the best. The Cappuccino is getting better the closer we get to Italy..so we had to indulge before moving on.
Spotting Motovun from the roadside below.Cappuccino is getting betterView from the wall at top of Motovun. Spectacular vineyards and olive trees.Enjoying the view, the sun, and NO other tourists.Most shops closed now that it is low season. Okay with us!
The road to Buzet was green and gold countryside with a grand mixture of rock. The boys continued to gawk at rock and plan the next climbing exploration. We could see Buzet coming into view as we looked up into the clouds. Buzet is a big “normal” city where commerce exists, schools, malls, playgrounds, industry and lots of cars inhabit the space. We took the road up to the old village. No cars in the village so we walked up and entered the very quiet artists haven. We have become accustomed to the astonishing views, narrow cobblestone ( slippery, steep and polished) alleys, truffle shops, cafes, astonishing historical artifacts from the first and second centuries ( mostly Roman) and art studios. We did wander in a gallery and meet the artist who owned the shop and his colorful works were on display. He grew up in the village of Buzet and still lives and works there with his wife and family. The rest of the village was such a joy to wander; quiet and peaceful. Greenery and flowers growing between the crevices in the ancient rock walls provided stunning wall art. Time passed slowly and we just enjoyed the ability to stop and stare uninterrupted. Definitely less interesting than Rovinj, but very quiet, well kept and an artists dream.
Above Buzet. Autumn showing its’ colorsGreenery is vibrant and magical as it flows from the ancient walls and onto the cobblestoneNarrow passages to unique structures of historical significance. Buzet.
On our final leg of the inland road trip, we stopped at a thriving roadside cafe for lunch. We dined outside, next to a peaceful river and a countryside that was turning its’ colors. We were hoping to have our first culinary experience with truffles. We ordered pasta with white truffles (white are more rare, more difficult to find and more expensive). It took us a minute, but yes, we did thouroughly enjoy our experience with this delicacy. The tast is subtly sublime! Now, we just need a trained pig to make our fortunes!
Pasta with white truffles. Very rich, very delish!
After lunch, we did some countryside exploring and ended up at our final village destination. Groznjan is the smallest village of the three, but the structure is the same. The shops all have working studios attached as this village is ONLY for artists. During the high season, tourists come in droves and purchase a wide variety of art and handicrafts. Jewelry seems to be the most popular. When the tourists leave for the season, some artists stay and work all winter in their village studio while others leave Groznjan to go to their home studio and create more works. I LOVED THIS PLACE. Artists are such interesting people. I would have enjoyed this even more at the peak of the high season when all the shops were open and all the artists were working.
Heading up to Groznan Artist CommunityIn high season, Jazz festivals bring in music lovers from all over the world on this small stage.We loved drinking alone and having this view to ourselves. The solitude made the scenery even more spectacularStudios and shops would be bustling in high season. I would have loved to watch the artists at work!
Our last day in Rovinj was a day at the beach for me and a day of climbing for the guys. Dinner at our favorite place and we are packed to leave in the morning.
We spent our departure day finding three more crags and we all enjoyed climbing in the fantastic Indian Summer weather. We ended up just short of the sLOVEnian border for the night. An incredible final dining experience included ricotta cheese spread with shavings of white truffles as a starter. Super yummy!
Ricotta cheese spread with shaved white truffles. Exquisite.
Now, at the border to return the car, hop a passenger van to airport hotel and we are now in Italy and headed to Greece tomorrow!
Dear Diary: Pappi Coconuts ( our good friend, Mitch)arrived last night. We are excited to have him join us on the motorcycle tour of The Balkans. This morning we picked up our bikes, and got our instructions, our gear, some directions and we were off! The weather is warm and sunny. Driving though the country side of Slovenia is very pleasurable because it is a gorgeous country, clean and manicured. Not many vehicles on the road ,either. We went through the border crossing out of the Schengen and into Croatia. We headed straight to one of the most visited tourist sites, Plitvice Lakes. We quickly found an apartment and spent the evening hiking around this magical place laced with waterfalls,lakes, and a pallette of pretty pastels. This place is mystical and it felt like I was in an artists’ dream. Heavenly, so heavenly. We left the park in the dark and blindly found our way to a very traditional restaurant at the top of a hill overlooking the park and open to the star studded sky. The place was crowded and without reservations, we had to wait. We had a very pushy, cocky but informative and endearing waiter. We ordered a plate for three people that had more meat than I could even ever imagine. When in Croatia, one eats meat and lots of it!!! There were a few small delicious side dishes and a wonderfully chocolate dessert…so we forgave the waiter and moved our satisfied bellies back down the hill and to bed.
Pappi!!!!!!Plitvice Lakes in CroatiaPlitvice Lakes in Croatia
Sept. 14
Dear Diary: We are up early, and hiking again in the Plitvice Lakes to finish what we couldn’t in the dark last night. Stunning dawn light made for great photos this morning. On the bikes and off to the next destination. Not sure of how far we could make it along the Dalmatian coast, we finally quit riding at dusk and landed in the charming village of Trojir. We walked the promenade and dreamed about life on the lavish yachts that were docked. The money, the stuff, the people eating five star meals on their boat decks with waiters and servants and yacht workers busy. The harbor was lit up, the sea was an intense blue and the Promenade was busy with hungry tourists wandering just like us. We had a very nice meal and ordered fish after the meat fest the night before.
Plitvice Lakes in the morning lightDreamy, heavenly Plitvice Lakes.Small port village of Trojir
Sept.15
Dear Diary: We are not sleeping in on this trip. Being on the motorcycle with destinations that must be reached and goals that must be met….we were up early, made a quick breakfast and we were on our way to the ferry at Split and then floated lazily to the Croatian Island of Hvar. Split was insanity and the driving, traffic and cray cray just to get TO the ferry and ON the ferry was nerve wracking. Once on the ferry, we could only sit, enjoy and even catch a few Z’s. Once off the ferry, we drove the entire length of the island with a quick stop for lunch in Jelsa. We had the greatest waiter, a quiet lunch looking at the sea and a most fantastic hamburger and fries. This was the little bit of rest we needed before jumping back on the bikes. We made it to the end of the Hvar and the only other ferry terminal. I voted to leave this dingy little fishing village and catch the last ferry to the mainland. I was outvoted by the guys….but, ended up discovering this secret gem of a place was a real jewel. Looks are not everything. Theevening light was so incredible and the walking path to the lighthouse was just enough exercise to satisfy. My guess is most people opt for the last ferry, but we stuck it out in Sucuraj and we struck gold!
Lunch in Jelsa, Hvar IslandFishing village of Sucaraj.Village life.Evening light in Sucraj made this quiet little village appealing and inviting.
Sept. 16, 17
Dear Diary: Okay, first ferry to the mainland and we are headed to Dubrovnik. I am so excited…I love the big cities, I love the old towns, I love the crowds and people watching. Will and Mitch do not, so we stopped short of Dubrovnik and settled in the small village of Orasac. We had the nicest apartment, the sweetest little grandmas taking care of us, and a balcony with a sea view in front, village below and mountains behind. We chose to stay put, find dinner and attack Dubrovnik in the morning. Our first choice for dinner…CLOSED. Second and only other choice for dinner was pizza down, down, down a steep road all the way to the sea….in the dark. Glad we had our headlamps! Pizza was great, the walk back up was heart throbbingly painful, but a good thing to do to get rid of those pizza calories. I am going to sleep well tonight!!!! Up and out in the rain to Dubrovnik. This fortified walled city did not disappoint. The streets were crowded, the upper wall passage around the city was teeming with hot, sweaty tourists all looking for that perfect photo from the many viewpoints and we all were in line for a bottle of water. Exhausting and a couple of hours of this was enough for the boys. Getting on the bikes and riding up above to an ancient war site was their mission. We found fewer people, a cool breeze and a resting place with scenery everywhere. WE headed back to Orasac for dinner at a small and traditional village restaurant. It was at the home and in the back yard of a husband and wife cooking team. This was our favorite food, favorite view from an eatery and our favorite waitress. The dish for three fish and veggies was incredibly tasty and well presented. We were more than satisfied.
View from our balcony in OrasacJust chilling’ on the balcony.Dorks in Dubrovnik. City wall tour.Looking ver the edge of the wall and counting all the dropped hats below. The wind can get ya!Enjoying our favorite restaurant in Orasac and the view.As the evening went on, the view got better.Charming everything at this eatery. Six tables and one serving a night. Views for everyone.Looking down into Dubrovnik from upper ancient city wall path around the fortified city.The overlook way up above Dubrovnik. A wild ride!!!!!!!!!!Looking across the at the fortress from Old Town, Dubrovnik.Dubrovnik, CroatiaRemnants of the not too distant history of war in The Balkans. Above Dubrovnik.
Sept 17:
Dear Diary: Yup, up early and on the road. We are headed to Montenegro and the Bay of Kotor and Kotor city. I have heard so much about this place that I can’t wait to get there. However, we are learning that all does not go quickly and smoothly on the motorcycles. Sometimes there are ridiculous lines at the border crossings and sometimes the weather shuts us down. We had a bit of each and we finally arrived at this much heralded walled city with not much of the day left to explore. We are getting used to this. Found a place to stay, got off the bike…quick change of clothes and off we go. We list our top three wish list things to do and try to get them all accomplished. We were so happy to see the cruise ships departing and the throngs of tourists going with the ships. Kotor city was easy and fascinating to walk through. It was unusually quiet, charming us with the many skinny, dark cobblestone side streets and a stunning array of historical landmarks all around us. Many museums, many churches and statues. We felt satisfied….well, the guys did. I could have used an additional day to see every shop and every side street but we still had 1348 steps to go up to reach the famous St.John’s overlook….and it was getting late and a bit dark. None the less, we bought the ticket and arrived at the top breathing heavy with shaky legs and then had 20 minutes to absorb the enormity of the bay, the city, the sea and the amazing ancient wall that continued to creep up the mountain and back down to the sea…built oh so many thousands of years ago. Steps down pushed my quads to new levels, but we still had time for dinner. Eating is always a goal and eating local and traditional was the first choice. We found a great little eatery close to the sea and shared a communal dish of fish and vegetables, ending this fishy feast with a chocolate delight!!!!! Over dinner, we planned the next day and all agreed it had to be a very early start to avoid the huge torrential rains that were in the forecast for the mountain passes we needed to travel. Good Night!
Entering the Sea Gate to Kotor CityKotor City1348 steps for this view….worth it!Church and clock tower in Kotor City.
Sept.18
Dear Diary: It is early and we are climbing up and up on winding roads and screeching turns. No rain…but this amazing rainbow appeared as a result of the rain below us. We beat it!!!!! NOT. We did get rain and it was torrential for about an hour. Luckily, where we thought there were no humans, we found a cafe and had coffee and Scrabble until the weather cleared. As we dropped down from the mountains we came upon the Piva Gorge. First a lake that went for miles and miles and was full of fluorescent blues and turquoises. Water so clear, you can see the big fish. Then, the Piva Dam. I have never seen a structure for damming water quite like this.The architecture was mind boggling. The surrounding area in all directions was so beautiful and full and intriguing. We stood on the bridge for an hour just watching the massive river flow, the fish in schools swim and the peaceful lake exude color and tranquility. AHHHHHHHH! From there it was down, down, down to MoStar, Bosnia as our goal destination. AS we head to the border crossing we run into a line of traffic. STOP!!! An accident in a dark bridge ( bridges in Montenegro are dank, long and pitch black, creepy and scary). This accident is serious, there are fatalities and the road from both ways will be closed for at least three hours. WE are advised that with our bikes, we can take another small road and get through to the other side. We decide to do that and so does everyone else including busses who have no business trying to fit on that ONE way road. Long story short, this becomes a total cluster at the top and you have vehicles nose to nose and cars lined up and down both sides. We were in front of the bus that started the cluster and Mitch was behind. Add rain and cold to this mix plus angry and impatient drivers and we had a mess. Once we were out, all traffic on both sides going the shortcut were closed and we were one of the lucky ones. Mitch did not come out for another hour and we waited in the rain at the bridge for him. The small village of Nicsic was in a state of chaos and the hotels started to fill. We had to spend the night here and eat the worst pizza EVER . But we were safe, alive and well. So, okay. Good Night Montengro.
Just as we were heading into the Montenegro mountains, snapped this view of Kotor city and bay.That rainbow, though. Kotor Bay. It dumped on us shortly after that photo.Will the Thrill with his best friend.This stunning lake goes on for miles. Part of The Piva Gorge and Dam Project.Resting at the lake to see through the clear waters and gawk at the schools of fish.And the lake goes on and on.Autumn colors as we look up river at the damn site. Vibrant scenery, rushing river and genius dam architecture.Will the Thrill loved the Piva Gorge. One of his favorite places thus far.Will and Bon
Sept 19:
Dear Diary: Another border crossing ( pretty smooth) and then the landscape changes. The roads in Bosnia start out rough, the country is barren and we miss the mountains and the sea immediately. But, it gets better and we start to see evidence of life. We had an interesting lunch in a small village with what we thought looked like a nuclear power station or a nuclear reactor up road from us. It was creepy, we ate quickly and took our leave. Bosnia is expansive and barren and then, we begin to enter into village and city life. The Mostar skyline immediately pops out at us with many mosque, minarets and iron crosses reaching for the sky at dusk. The Islamic presence in Mostar was very evident. I wasn’t prepared with my history lessons for this city and its’ struggles. This is a peaceful town with very distinct trinket kiosks, a cobblestone market place and the famous Stari Most (Old Bridge). The bridge is the number one tourist attraction and has impressive history of destruction and restoration. The city itself is a cool mix of Christians and Muslims living in harmony after the Bosnian War in which there was an ethnic cleansing of the Muslim peoples. We spoke with a few who say life is good, peaceful and harmonious for the most part. I thought the city was very unique and different from Dubrovnik and Kotor. The dichotomy of Islam and Christian was clearly stated, but the overall feeling of the city and it’s people was quiet and contained. I liked the feeling of Mostar. It exuded hope, strong community and a special spirit of peace.
Stari Most (Old Bridge) MostarStari Most in Mostar, BosniaMinarets light up in MostarIslamic Trinkets in the market at MostarColorful Mostar. Always a minaret. Crosses are harder to spot, but they are there.Neretva River running through Mostar, Bosnia
Sept 20:
Dear Diary: How fast can you get us to Paklenica? Will’s been dreaming of this place for the entire trip….except we did not bring our climbing gear on the motor bikes. We were here ten years ago and he loves the climbing at this National Park. Once we were settled at our beach front apartment, we headed to the park to make our plan for a hike the next day. We were all pretty tired and walked along the beach path at dusk for photos and some food. This place has a climbing community feel and we were regretting that we did not try to fit our gear on the bikes somehow. Oh, well. It is a beautiful place and the sunset shots were the best of our trip so far.
Paklenica Rock….Climbers Delite!Our beachfront at the apartmentResting at the beach after a long day on the bike.Peaceful Sunset in PaklenicaStunning sunset in Croatia
Sept 21:
Dear Diary: The climbing in Paklenica is fantastic and the hiking is pretty great as well. We chose a classic hike to the summit of Anica Kuk. It was pretty much straight up and then, straight down. Rocky, steep, and polished made the hike down a bit challenging. We did not quite make the summit, but we were close enough. I LOVE LOVE the white sticky, sharp, big holds limestone that is widespread over all of Croatia. The last part of the hike was a limestone scramble and it was fun! Great views of the Adriatic Sea and the rest of the park was a highlight. It was a day well spent and exhausting. We had enough time to enjoy our beachfront and Will went for a swim. Dinner, exhaustion and bed. Great Day!!!
Hiking in PaklenicaPaklenica National Park in CroatiaDiverse landscapes in Paklenica….not just for climbers.Love this limestone….rest stop!Sticky, sharp limestone and well marked trails….love it!More Rock!Climbers everywhere.Damn…we wish we had brought our gear.
Sept.22
Dear Diary: Leaving Paklenica not having the opportunity to climb was a bit of a bummer for all of us. Will vows to come back….he will. We are now headed towards Slovenia where we will drop off the motor bikes. One more stop in Opatija, Croatia. This beachfront village has beautiful Venetian influence and architecture. It was all the rage for wealthy tourists and yacht loving folk at the turn of the century. The boardwalk was delightful to stroll with many impressive old hotels, excellent restaurants, parks full of fabulous sculptures and upscale shopping. This was a perfect place for us to spend our last night on the road trip. Our Italian meal was notable but our apartment… not so much. Although we are really tired of moving and packing everyday, we are sad to get to the end of this road trip. We were just getting in the groove of motorcycle touring.
Solo sunrise hike in OpatijaWas glad I had my headlamp…. Still dark at the hilltop.Opatija rest stop. Wine, beer and cell phone.Sunset in Opatija
Sept 23
Dear Diary: On the freeway today to get to Ljubljana by 11:00 AM. Turn the bikes in, get a car, grab the rest of our stuff and head back out of the Schengen to the Istria Region of Croatia. Bittersweet!!!!!!!
Slovenia: We ❤️ You! It is difficult to put our thoughts into words. This is a very clean and organized country. It feels comfortable and familiar here. The way of life is similar to ours, yet different. The mountains and countryside are very beautiful. Lovely Ljubljana is, well, lovely and lively. It feels peaceful yet stimulating. There is a slightly hip energy and a strong sense of historical and national pride. The economy seems to be thriving and success is attainable. Family is important. Sloveians seem happy and satisfied. They are kind, curious and friendly. They are sensible and hopeful. This was a “feel good” place, for sure. Maybe, my favorite thus far. In Slovenia, I am a pensioner NOT a senior citizen. I ❤️ That!!!! I embraced the title and took the discount!!!! Ljubljana is often referred to as the “Paris of The Balkans” and it is deserving of that title.
Ljubljana EnergyThe Dragon BridgeLjubljana Fun!
View from the clock tower; Ljubljana CastlePeaceful Ljubljana.Quaint and quiet riverside bar.
Thus far, we have seen many regions of the Alps. Whether Bavarian, Swiss or Austrian, they are all uniquely stunning and each region has it’s own personality based on geologic features, hiking paths, accessibility, huts, historical features and summit elevations. We especially loved the rugged, craggy, exposed limestone of the Julian Alps. We spent much of our Austrian/ Julian Alps’ time with lots of people and always being active. If we weren’t hiking, climbing, camping or boating, we were eating and socializing. It was purely coincidental that we were staying in a small Austrian village during the Euro Bike Week. Will would describe this as the ‘Sturgis of Europe’. There were 13,000 Harley’s on parade around the Faaker See on Saturday. We missed that(I think we were glad).
This portion of the trip was about being with the local people. The folks we knew and those we met were so fun, very inclusive, accommodating and hell bent on showing us a good time. They all live and work in the Carinithia region of Austria. Caritithia consists of many small villages nestled in between two big cities Klagenfurt and Villach . It is populated by folks who were born there and have lived there for generations. They are mountain people who love to be active in the outdoors EVERYDAY. Socializing together is very important to their livelihood and we enjoyed being immersed in their culture and will remember all the wonderful new friends we made.
We love you Volte, Ulli, Louisa, Matius, Lenka, Max, Mark, MiMi, Martine, Monica, Micah, Milo, Karen, Marianne, Timo, Simon and Jacob!
Day 1: We arrived late the evening before and were greeted by 14 year old Simon. He had prepared the most delicious plum dumplings ( knödel bread) for our dinner. We were awakened early and headed to our first hike with host and longtime friend Volte Mak and his girlfriend, Ulli. They took us to the beautiful Dobratschb National Park with many hiking choices. On our way to the summit, Volte and Will did a few short climbs and we all met at the hut on the summit later. At the summit, resides a big, beautiful hut and the two highest churches still standing and used sparingly.
Our first Austria summit with Volte and Ulli.
Historical landmark at the summit
Hiking down with these two means finding another way off the beaten path. Always an adventure!
Day 2: Relaxing day at the local climbing crag at Feistritz Em Rosenthal. Will was just happy to climb. Volte was just happy to have a partner. Bon was just happy to hike and work on the blog!
Local climbingR E A C H …..Feistritz Em Rosenthal
Day 3: A very early start with Volte took us to The Karawanken hiking and climbing area. We hiked up and up together to the multi pitch climbing approach. I let the guys do the last bit of approach in the slippery skree. I watched until they were out of sight and then hiked solo back to the hut. I added an additional 90 minutes to my hike and then waited with my Kindle and a latte. They returned a few hours later. We celebrated their successful summit and my solo descent by feasting THE BEST DUMPLINGS EVER and an ice cold beer. A fabulously exhausting day!
Volte ready to climb!View from the topView from the topSummit shot with an old friend.Back down… No problem. Great climb plus a via Ferata!
Day 4 & 5: Somewhat leisurely start to a 2 day camping trip in the Soca River Valley in Slovenia. We drove through Austria, passed through Italy and into Slovenia. We met our two other camper vans at a private camping area on the river…. ‘Glamping’ if you ask me. This is a very famous River for two reasons. 1. It is the most intense turquoise blue in color and while it looks warm and hot springs like…. It is the coldest water I have ever been in. I did NOT swim. 2. It is home to a rare species of trout called the marble trout. They reside ONLY IN THIS RIVER. A fishing license is extremely expensive and it is also very expensive if you order this trout in a resaraunt. Folks come from all over the world to fish for this trout. Camping was very social with lots of swimming, boating, jumping and eating. We were surprised when a mobile market drove around the camp ground playing the classic ice cream truck music. A grocery store on wheels with fresh, warm bread and anything you needed to cook or eat! We had perfect weather both days!
Lunch before heading home.So blue, so relaxing looking, so frigid cold. I could not jump?Rowing through this majestic canyon.There MUST be climbing at the campground.And, there must be bouldering for the kids, big and little.Boating in the Soca River. Easy glide…. But don’t fall in Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr.Van camping. Glamping for us!Beautiful walk to the climbing.Happy Hour!Louisa and Max… Who will jump first?
Day 6: We visited Klagenfurt today and had lunch in the oldest eating establishment in the city. The waitresses were really brash and loud (typical, supposedly) and we had some tasty traditional food and the best goulash in town. We hit the grocery store and bought provisions for our BBQ tonight and I bought a boutique!
Best goulash in Carinthia!Will the Thrill at the BBQ!Come see me and I will make a deal just for you!Teaching the Austrians a few American BBQ tips!
Day 6: It was a rainy, dreary day. We worked on the computer and went to Voltes’ bouldering gym. Later we picked up a couple of friends and headed to the Harley Davidson gathering at the Faaker See. It was a very wild evening that included great music, awesome people watching and thousands of motorbikes…. Really big bikes, beautiful bikes, fascinating bikes and unbelievably crazy machines. We were out until 1:00 AM, which is a record for us. We had a blast!
Just a sample and they were everywhere!ACDC cover band was phenomenal!!!!
Day 7,8,9: These last three days were spent hiking to huts in perfect weather. Hut hiking is the best because you know you get a treat at the end when you reach the hut at the summit. Thursday was the best treat,though, as we had dinner at Ulli’s and she prepared a fabulous traditional Austrian meal. Our feast included: Käsnudel, reindling and pohaca! (Stuffed noodles, soup and deliciously sweet cake). Thanks Ulli! Our last evening was spent at a favorite local village eatery. Every two weeks, there is a fish frenzy and a social gathering of locals ( we are locals now). Will and I could not decide and ordered the combo plate for two. The fish was so incredible and Will is not-particularly a fan, but he still describes it as the best fish he has had EVER!!!! What a SUPER way to end our ten day stay. Thanks to our new and forever friends for all the activity, food and fun.
Special side hike into an Art garden… Mystical and reflective.Miss covered crossMusical tree.Dancin’ with the ladies.Our last summit in the Alps.Pohaca cake.Fish frenzy! So good.
Best of BavariaBest of BavariaBest of Bavaria. Our hosts, Peter and Simone Storp. Dinner without the kids…. Too quiet, though.
We have been to Mittenwald three times in the last fifteen years and nothing changes in this “off the grid” traditional Bavarian village. To us, it felt the same and looked the same. No change is a beautiful thing and gives this quiet, charming village personality. Most of the restaurants and beer pubs still say “NO” when you ask if they have WiFi. Men and women wander around town in their lederhosen and drindls regularly. The lines at the local butcher and bakery are longer than those in the supermarket on the other end of the village.
What did change was; our dear friends Peter and Simone added two stories to their house and three children to their family. Leah who is five and Kilian and Luisa who are 20 month old twins gave Will plenty of grandpa practice. We had a delightful time and many “kid” related adventures with them. The scenery from their guest bedroom was a stunning view of the Bavarian Alps. We couldn’t believe our good fortune each morning when we opened our blinds. Each evening, we stared at the alpenglow during sunset. We enjoyed traditional German meals and BBQing American burgers in the back yard. We were so lucky to have walking access to dozens of notable hikes in the Alps and mountain bikes available whenever we wanted to ride. We improved our German by learning important words like: pacifier (Tusui), bottle (flasche), me(mich), out(aus), in(ich), finished (finish),hello (Hallo), eat (essen) and good night( gute nacht). These words sort of helped, but not until we learned to pronounce them correctly and put the baby inflections in the right places (whew!!!!!!!).
Practicing grandpa skills with Luisa.American burger and German beer make for a great backyard combo.This is the House That Peter Built.Host Family, Storp. Peter, Simone, Leah, Kilian and Luisa. WE loved our time with this family. Thanks again!!!!!!
Will describes Bavaria as “very well manicured”. Everything from the biking and hiking trails to the traditional villages, homes, and seaside swimming areas are clean, expertly marked, clipped, cut and orderly. It feels a little like Switzerland but with a human touch and it is less expensive here. Unlike the Swiss ( cordial but curt), Bavarians are kind, genuine, helpful and proud.
We found mountain biking for me (ahhhh, paved) and mountain biking for Will (uphill, graveled, and long) offering both Alpine scenery and humming villages. Our favorite ride was UP to the lakes along the forest and through the woods. The seaside (lakes) swimming areas are equipped to support the family tradition of daylong picnic, play and swim gatherings. Shops in the village still close down at 4:00 PM on Saturdays and open when they want on Monday. Thus, giving families time to be together and cutting back the work hours for the working folk.
Typical flower laden Bavarian house with a view.Biking to The Lautersee (favorite ride to the lakes)Downtown MittenwaldDowntown MittenwaldYes, that is gravel and I DON’T LIKE IT!!!!!!Biking with Peter was always more exciting than biking with Bon.Big Building behind Will was the site of 2015 G7 meetings. Obama was here. So, we’re we!Resting at the lake…. Contemplating a hike?
Our favorite hikes in Bavaria took us up on the chairlift or gondola and, then, we got to hike the rest of the trail UP to the top.
Chairlift to the Kranzberg Hut.
Hike down from the Kranzberg through the forest and to the Lautersee (lake). So lovely.
View from the top of Karwendel Region. Spectacular!Will pondering the immensity and beauty of The Karwendel.
This was a very special piece of our journey. So glad we had the time to stop and enjoy our friends and immerse ourselves in Bavarian traditions. A fantastic place to visit!!!!!
Danke Schoen Peter, Simone, Leah, Luisa and Kilian
Stunning Peles Castle in Sinai.Bucharest lit up!Sold Out…too late.Just off the road…. Fortified Fortress.
Romania was an accident. A last minute decision to get out of the Schengen region for a a week. We overbooked our time in the Schengen and, so we chose Romania as a way out. We were pleasantly surprised to discover a rich culture and beautiful CTOWDED back roads that led us to castles, citadels, fortified churches and horses pulling buggys and gypsies. There is still a strong gypsy presence in the countryside of northern Romania.
We began with one night in Bucharest. We found this “Prague on a chill pill” city charming, yet, energizing. Old town was quiet with an under beat and many trendy and hip young Romanians out on the town. Historical buildings lit up and the past revealed itself in the architecture and landscape.
We picked up our BMW motor bike in the morning and we were OFF! In 6 days we travelled the length of the country from south to north and enjoyed discovering this “steeped in tradition” culture. Riding windy roads that led to self sustaining communities and countryside traditions was enjoyable. We found the countryside, Saxon villages and old towns stimulating and beautiful, but not “Swiss like ” stunning. The Bram Stoker connection and creation of Dracula in Transylvania inspired by the small town of Bran made Romania even more fascinating and unique.
Bran CastleDracula MuseumCount DraculaSaxon village. No roads. For motorbikes only!
Romanian Obsessions:
Hay huts. They are everywhere and villagers are always making more; worried that somehow their animals won’t have enough food for the winter.
Wood stacks. Again, they are always topping off the stacks sometimes taller than their homes; worried that they won’t have enough wood for the winter.
Corn Fields. The Romanians only grow two things and corn is one of them. Seems to be a good climate for corn and there will be no shortage of corn oil, polenta and other such corn byproducts.
Sunflower Fields. The Romanians only grow two things and Sunflowers are one of those. These grow to unbelievable heights and light up the fields with a golden brown hue. Seems to be the perfect climate and there will be no shortage of sunflower oil or other such byproducts of the sun flower.
You can never have enough!Everyone has their own unique gate.You can never have enough hay for the winter. (Mara Mures Countryside)
Romanian Passions:
Polenta. Polenta and shrimp. Polenta and sausage. Polenta and pigs feet. This yummy yellow staple is their specialty. If you order it alone, it will come swimming in butter, smothered in cheese with a healthy helping of sour cream to go on top. I ordered it once and I couldn’t do more than three bites. Will had to finish and he did so willingly.
Ornate Gates. Every household has a BIG front gate. Every gate is unique. Some are very special, creative and probably expensive. Other are simple, traditional and insignificant. Every household has one and every gate is different. Romanians are proud of their gates.
Churches. Preserved and fortified churches are everywhere you look. Not just the city center, but on hillsides, next to rivers, or crowded in villages between houses and shops. From afar, they all look the same, but each is unique as you get up close. From paintings, altars and archetecural style, they create a feeling of village community and tradition. They are reflective of the time when they were built and the existing culture.
Gypsies, horses and buggys. Very traditional but it is gypsy passion that drives this tradition. Gypsy women and children still beg for money and give you that “gypsy stare”…like they are casting a bad spell on you if you say NO. They don’t like you to photograph them. The women still wear the scarves on their head and the brightly colored,patterned skirts. They seem exotic, full of energy and passionate about their life.
Paintings and altars in churches all different. Each church is very unique.These are everywhere…but do you see me in the background on MY horsepower?Churches from a distance all look the same……
Often, we found ourselves entangled in very intense tourist and local traffic as we entered and exited big cities, small villages and scenic mountain passes. This drove Will crazy on the motorcycle and he would study the map for hours to find a way around the crowds and get to the outskirts. We knew that we were traveling in the high season but did not expect so many local tourists in Romania. Mistake 1. Unbeknownst to us, we chose to depart on the bike on the day of a National holiday. Ugh….duh….mistake. We recovered and moved on. Mistake 2 Yet again, t we planned too much to do and too much distance to cover in 6 days(classic Will and Bon). This resulted in very long days on the motorcycle, frantic last minute lodging plans, stress, bickering and tension. Looking back now, we don’t regret the decisions we made and are really happy that we had this experience. But there may or may not have been some arguments??☹️
Loves: Cabin in Breb Village. Cabin stay here in this traditional Mara Mures region included dinner with a local family and a charming cabin in the forest stocked with local fare. Fresh milk from the cow, goat cheese, eggs and fresh bread. This was our favorite place in Romania. We would have loved a week here instead of just one night.
Well stocked kitchen in the cabin at Breb.Our cabin in Breb. (Northern Romania Countryside)
Fortified city of Sighisora. This ancient citadel was fascinating and took us back in time to medieval life.
Looking down from the clock tower in Sighisora.Clock Tower in Sighisora. Ornate, colorful roofs.Clock Tower in Siniu
Crama Sibiul Vechi: Our favorite dining place in all of the country. Down under the city chaos of Sibiu, this dark, little eatery served incredible food and wine at very reasonable prices. No reservations and super popular. We went early and were seated within five minutes.
Crama Sibiul Vechi. Our favorite restaurant in Romania.Great food, great drink. Small bit of Polenta in the far right corner. Polenta with everything!
To see the Parliament Building in Bucharest was an unexpected treat. We did not need to go into the building to feel the Russian/Soviet influence. The sheer size and architecture spoke volumes about the history. Just outside, thousands of fans were entering the Parliament grounds for the much anticipated Rhianna concert. Sold out, much to our dismay.
Our roaming adventures were short and sweet and the people and culture will not be forgotten. The traffic jams are history(the kind you don’t want to remember).
Wedding photo at Charles Bridge. We saw hundreds of blissful couples seeking the perfect wedding photo.Street walking in Old Town.Meet burger….as opposed to Veggie burger?Charles Bridge.Selfie from the top of the Astronomical Clock Tower.Looking across the river at The Prague Castle.Late night in The Market Square. Lobkowicz Palace.These dumplings though.Underground wine tasting bar. A great find. Best bottle of wine so far.Old Town, Prague.Bubbles. Fun for children in Old Town Square.Prague Astronomical Clock.Castles along the Vlata River.St Virus CathedralA city of castles, rivers and bridges. Prague is a city of magical energy.
Flower power in the Swiss Alps.Jump!!! (Well, we didn’t , actually)The Eiger Trail.Via Ferata starting line!The Eiger!Water Tower of LucerneChapel BridgeCelebrating Swiss Days in WengenAmazing hiking trails and awesome views.Hike at Klein Schendegg.Our favorite meal…sausage and pomme frites. After the Eiger hike; lunch.Overlooking Wengen, Lautenbrunner from the Mannlichen Gondola
Three grandparents, three happy campers and one disgruntled 4 year old.
Hike at Klein SchendeggJust a great photo by Will. Wild Mushroom.
Oh Switzerland….it has been so long (blogs are difficult to keep current). But, here is what I remember…..time with family, incredible vistas, base jumpers,very expensive country, beautiful peaks and mountains everywhere, stellar hiking, lots of money needed, trains, gondola rides, order, clean,no police in sight, $$$$$$$$$$. Well, you get the picture. We had one night in Lucerne and it was an unexpected treat of great food, a very hip music festival, historical landmarks and a lovely lake. The temperature was perfect and the energy was surging amongst a mixed local and international crowd. We met Brit, Mike and the girls here as well as Mike’s parents. We stayed one night and were on the train to Wengen the next morning.
The train dropped us all off at our conveniently located Swiss Chalet in Wengen. We spent the next 5 days in that area hiking, exploring and enjoying a city with no cars. We had sunny days, chilly nights and an intense rain storm that soaked the already green terrain. After the family left, Will and I moved to Lautenbrunner for even more fun! I hadn’t thought much about the Swiss Alps prior to arriving there. I was stunned by the beauty, the fresh air, and the easy access to many hikes and lookouts. The trails are paved, mostly, and the ascents to peaks are usually reasonable and the descents much the same. Hiking was a pleasure both aesthetically and physically. At the height of the tourist season, the crowds were plentiful and the lines for the tram were unbearable, at times. However, the wait was alway worth the frustration. While Wengen served up phenomenal hiking and awesome vistas and overlooks; Lautenbrunner was a mecca for paragliders and base jumpers. And, if you like Via Ferratas…this is the place to do an easy, exposed climb that offers many overhanging ladders and wobbly bridges to test your balance. Mountain biking and a small insignificant climbing area kept us interested and entertained. By the time we boarded the train for Bavaria, we were ready to put up our feet and plan for the next chapter of our adventure. Highlights from our Swiss ‘Daze’ include The Eiger Trail and lunch afterwards. We enjoyed taking in the spectacular views of that grand piece of rock. The Via Ferrata with Mike and Brit was full of laughter and fun. Stopping to watch the base jumpers JUMP right next to us was thrilling and frightening all at the same time. Mostly, we loved the precious time with family and friends, the feel of the crisp, clean air and the visual stimuli surrounding us at every turn. Oh, Switzerland you are so spectacular and OH SO expensive$$$$$$.
Mia FamigliaView from our villa in BellagioCan you see the rainbow?Getting used to the idea of “grandpa”Our villa backdrop…. I am sickly thin from my surprise surgery. But, it doesn’t last……Lake ComoLake ComoPajama party…Zoe and EllaBellagioDinner with family and friends!
Lake Como is one of the largest and most spectacular lakes I have ever visited. It is super scenic and stretches for miles with villages sprawled all along the coasts on either side. The view from our beautiful villa was one of never-ending sunsets, rainbows, water and mountains. This was a very special place to share with family and friends. Dinners, swimming, hot tubbing and exploring the village of Bellagio set the scene for exercise, chill-axing and some much needed computer time. A fun and energetic group of Brit and Mike’s friends showed up on day two and it was a party after that! We loved the precious moments with Zoe and Ella and enjoyed the energy of “thirty somethings” excited to be traveling, exploring and partying in Italy! Bellagio is a quaint, but bustling village nestled up against the lake. Beautiful views, enticing restaurants, and charming cobblestone corridors made the hike down and up worthwhile. We loved grabbing the motor scooter for a quick thirty minute drive up windy roads to get the “best view ever” and down again for dinner at the villa. We loved Lake Como and it’s surroundings, but family and friends are what made our trip truly memorable.
My girls!The Duomo (Milan Cathedral)Zoe and Ella (special littles)Galleria ( Versace, Vuitton, Cole Haan….you get the idea)At the Duomo
Oh Milan….under impressed (we are realizing that we are just not that into BIG cities and would much rather be in the mountains). The Duomo is spectacular and a fascinating slice of history, for sure. The galleria of expensive and over the top fashion shopping made me drool. Window shopping at it’s best, for sure. However, the rest of the city was not memorable for us. We are glad this was just a two night stop over and a place to meet up with family!!! BONUS! We are happily off to Lake Como for some much needed relaxation and family time.
