Month: February 2017

I have been dreading this post, this week and these last days.  How does one leave paradise?  How do you leave a piece of your heart without missing it?  Falling in love with a place is like any other love. Michael Gill writes “You may, before, have been stirred by a voice or an alluring shape seen in a crowd but, there comes a moment when you are suddenly aware of something uniquely or bewitchingly different.  So, it is with a place.”  I love New Zealand and all that it has to offer.  It would be the closest to a perfect paradise that I have ever been.  The Thrill feels this way about South Africa, but he may be hedging……

We saved the best for last and depart now feeling satisfied and with a hunger for more.  We will be back.

The last two days on The Kepler were our most challenging  and stimulating of the 4 day trek.  Booked reservations  required that we do the trek in reverse order so as to get a bunk in the huts.  We ended up loving that switch as it placed us in the most stunning hut on our last night instead of our first night.  After, we drove straight to Wanaka and then met friends Greg and Jean Jack for a farewell BBQ.  We started our journey at their house in Lyttleton 6 weeks ago.  Finally got to sleep in and then started heading towards Christchurch to return car and get on a flight.  We stopped in Twizel for two nights to visit the very popular recreation area at Tekapo Lake.  Big beautiful blue glacial carved lake.  Iconic small church on the coastline just finishing up with Sunday service seemed to draw folks of all denominations into the historical rock building.  On the way, we were fortunate to have a sunny, dusky view of the tallest mountain in NZ, Mt Cook.  The time of day and the smashing weather were perfect for that elusive photo of the snow drenched Cook.  Lake Pukaki in all its brilliant azure supported the size and magnamity of this special peak.  Lovely and humbling.  Peaceful and daunting.  We paused to enjoy the scene. Today, as we drove closer and observed the massive rock from different angles, we agreed on the power and majesty it exudes.  We felt done, now.  Yes, we are leaving and yes, I am teary.  Looking forward to new adventures….

Week 6:
Places:
Fri: Kepler
SA: Kepler
Su: drive to Twizle, Lake Tekapo
M: Mt Cook
T: return to Christchurch
W: fly to Tasmania
Th: Hobart, Tasmania

Accommodations:
Fri: Kepler, Luxmore Hut
Sa: Wanaka, Lees Airbnb
SU: Twizle Airbnb
M: Twizle Airbnb
T: Juicy Hostel
W: Hobart airbnb
Activities:
F: Kepler. Luxmore Hut. 14.6 km
SA: Kepler. Out to car. 13.8 km/dinner with Greg Jack in Wanaka
Su: rest day/ drive to Lake Tekapo
M: day hike at Mt Cook/Lake Pukaki
T: drive to Christchurch
W: fly to Hobart

Why I still ??????love NZ:

***Free National Parks.  All this fabulous for free.  No fees.

I wouldn’t feel good if I didn’t mention the two issues that make NZ IMperfect.

Sand Flies……horrifying!

Food Prices:  astronomical!

 

?❤️?❤️?❤️still in love.

 

We meet folks everyday from everywhere.  They come, they go.  Sometimes, you might exchange an email or Instagram name.  But, there are a few people along the way when there is an instant connection.  Deb and David were those folks.  Kiwis from Auckland recently relocated to Queensland were instantly gracious, interesting,  helpful and inviting.  A week later we enjoyed an amazing BBQ lamb dinner at their home and after a hut night, we were invited to sleep in a real bed at their place.  We  really enjoyed their company and insight.  We hope we can return the hospitality soon as they love to ski.  Thanks Deb and David!!!!!!!

We finally reached the Fiordlands!  We have been saving the best for last and anticipating and training for our Great Walk on The Kepler Track.  After our phenomenal boat tour of the Milford Sound(World Heritage Site), we spent three nights in three different funky places.  We positioned ourselves close to the day hikes we wanted to do and off we went.  All of our hikes were very different and satisfying in their own unique way.  Each had its share of sand flies and the battle was on.  Gunn’s Camp…. you win for having the most ridiculous number of those bastards.  They were viscious????.  I was glad to get to the lovely town of Te Anau and prep for the trek in a hospitable hotel room with no nasties around.  The 4 day 3 night hut to hut Kepler Track delivered…. sunny, challenging up and down hill trek with our packs.  6 other Americans and 1 Brit were our companions, travel buddies, and bunk mates.  So much fun and the most awesome huts ever.  This trek had it all and was our favorite by far.  We felt satisfyingly knackered at the end and a bit sad.  It was a fantastic week solidifying our love affair with this country.

1. Week five: feb 17- 24.                                                                              Places.  :
   Fri: Wanaka,  and Queenstown
   Sat: Fiordland, Milford Sound
   Sun: Fiordland
   Mon: Fiordland
   T: Te Anua
   W: Kepler track
   Th: Kepler                                                                              Accommodations:
   F: David and Debs
   SA: Gunn’s Camp ( camping)
   Su: Te Anau Downs Lodge ( lakeside view)
   M: Gunns Camp (cottage)
   T: Te Anau Village Inn
   W: Kepler Hut
   Th: Kepler Hut.                                                                                       Activities:
   Fri: drive to Wanaka, Will paragliding, shop in Arrowstown ( expensive, artsy)
   Sa: drive to Fiordlands, explore Te Anau, boat ride in Milford Sound on sunny day, visit to The Chasm
   Su: Hike Gertrude’s Saddle( did not make it to th top due to weather rolling in). 4 hrs
   M: Hike the Keys Saddle and Lake Marion
   T: Rest day and Kepler prep
   W: Kepler Track Moturua Hut. 6 km ( on the beach of Lake Manipouri
   Th: Kepler Track Iris Burn Hut. 16.2 km.                                                          Why I still ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ NZ.                                                                     ***green tipped mussels, lamb roast, leg of lamb, burgers with beets
   ***Sticky, date pudding
2. ***Water.  Anabundance of, clear, fresh, potable, blue, turquoise, protected, precious.
3. ***smoke free pretty much everywhere.

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Sad note:  Week 6 is our last week in Paradise??????

We couldn’t be happier about the weather here.  In a place that is known for rain, we have been SO LUCKY.  So far, four days of rain and NEVER on a day when we were out hiking, biking or camping.  When the sun is out, it is gloriously warm and makes the green greener.  We started the week biking on the Otago Rail Trail.  It was our first multi day mountain bike tour with “comfort” bikes and packed panniers.  The ride was a sensible trail with a bit of incline and gentle decline on gravel.  My issue was with the howling “blow me over ” side wind and the “hold me back” head winds on day three.   What should have taken a few hours ended up being a very long day….and the wind wasn’t the only one howling.  I may or may not have had a mini breakdown on this day.  That being said, we loved the ride, the landscapes, tunnels and bridges.  The night stops always included a charming step back in time to the gold rush days of the 1860’s AND a saloon, of course.  After the bike tour, we headed into Queenstown and had dinner at the home of new friends David and Deb.  It was pretty much a downpour all day and we spent our time in coffee shops planning the next month and securing flights and reservations. We vowed NEVER to waste a sunny day doing business.  After dinner, we headed out to The Kinloch Lodge to be close to the trailhead for The Routeburn Tramp.  On a cancellation, we secured a one night stay at the Routeburn Hut.  SCORE!!!!! This is meant to be one of the most scenic of the “Great Walks”.

 

Feb 10-16
Places:
F: Otago Rail Trail, Clyde and Ophir
SA: ORT, Wetterburn
Su: ORT, Middlemarch
M: Queenstown, Glenorchy, Kinloch
T: Routeburn Hut
W: Kinloch
Th: Queenstown

Accommodations:
F: Blacks Hotel
SA: Wetterburn Cottages
Su: Airbnb Hayes Lake Estates
M: Kinloch Lodge
T: Routeburn Flats Hut
W: Kinloch Lodge
Th:Friends in Queenstown/ restday/David and Debs

Activities:
F: Mountain Biking the Otago Rail Trail 46 km
SA: Bike the OTR (44 km)
Su: Bike the OTR (72 km)
M: Explore Queenstown(RAINY)
T: Hike to the Routeburn Hut for overnight
W: Day hike to Harris Saddle/Hike out of Routeburn Hut. Wakatipu Lake
Th:Queenstown/rest day

Reasons why I❤️❤️❤️New Zealand:

People:  Locals always making sure you are having a great time.  Generous, kind, mellow, friendly.

Food:  Best burgers, hands down.  Organic food always available.

Smoke and trash free environment…everywhere.

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  Week 3: Feb 3-Feb 9

Week three was BUSY and a lot of moving around.  We left Nelson and headed for the West Coast.  True to its’ reputation, the coast was very wet, and very wild and I loved the famed Highway 6 drive.  Meandering on curvy inclines and declines sandwiched between the rugged coastline and the densely forested “lushness”, we drove for miles.  Punakaki was the overnight stop and a quick hike to tourist favorite Pancake Rocks was just enough for us.  The even shorter hike to a stunning private beach was the hit of the day. Up and out early after pancakes ( of course), we headed to Okarito Lagoon to camp with the Southwicks.  This was a gem we didn’t have in our plans, but a charming camping and kayaking spot….not to mention the best NZ sunset thus far.  After kayaking, we headed to the Franz and Fox glaciers and hiked to the viewpoint of the Franz Josef glacier.   Gray and ominous, I could feel the thundering power of water.  After a night in Franz Josef, we had a stormy and wet drive inland to Wanaka.  Wanaka would be our base to prepare for our first hut experience at Aspiring hut.  Fantastic Airbnb and off to Mt Aspiring early.  We drove an hour to the trailhead and hiked 2 1/2 hours to the hut.  Easy hike but we tramped through lots of mud, boggy muck, stream crossings and plenty of sheep poo.  The hut expierence was great.  Sharing bunk rooms with 12 other people and cooking space with 20 or more is always…….an experience.  Met some great folks, gleaned a lot of good NZ travel planning info and day hiked our butts off.  I got my exercise trying to outwit the sand flies.  Bon: 1   Sand Flies: 0. Hut experience was great preparation for the upcoming Kepler Track( one of the Great Walks in NZ.)

Places:
Fri: Punakaki Beach
SA: Okarito
Su: Franz Josef
M: Wanaka
T/W: Aspiring Hut
Th: Wanaka
Accommodations:
Feb 3. Fri: West Coast, Punakaki beach hostel
Feb 4: Okarito lagoon and campground
Feb 5: Franz Josef Backpacker
Feb 6: Wanaka Airbnb
Feb 7: Aspiring Hut
Feb 8: Aspiring Hut

Activities:                                                                                                         Fri: Drive to Punakaki, Hike to Pancake Rocks and blowhole, hike to spectacular beach with waterfall
SA: Camping with Southwicks
Su: Kayak in Okarito lagoon/ hike to glacier viewpoint(Franz Josef)
M: Drive to Wanaka                                                                                               T:  Hike to Aspiring Hut (2/12hrs).                                                                         W: day hike up the Matukituki Valley ( 5 hrs )                                                 Th:  Hike out ( 2 hrs)

Reasons why I still ❤️❤️❤️New Zealand:

Free WiFi booths everywhere that give us the fastest internet in NZ.  Came with our phone SIM cards.  Super convenient, easy to find.

Accommodates and facilitates travelers like no other country. Makes everything EZ.

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   Onward……….

Week 2:  Jan 27- Feb 2

We ♥ New Zealand.  This week started out in Abel Tasman National Park where we were able to pick up a cancellation and get on the Abel Tasman track for three nights and three days.  The hiking was a great introduction to tramping in New Zealand and gave us some good insight before we attempt The Kepler in three weeks.  This tramp meandered through the forest bush and along the coastline of the the Tasman Sea offering breathtaking views every step of the way.  At the end of Day 3 and four hours in, we followed a path leading to a cafe/bar and lodge…in the wilderness?  We had to see to believe.  And, after Will had a few beers and I took another look at the big white, fluid filled blisters on my left foot…well, it didn’t take much to pull the credit card out and book a room.  A very big SPLURGE, for sure and we loved the bed, the shower and the organic dinner.  We won’t apologize or be embarrassed that we didn’t finish the final two hours of the trek.  Boat taxi the next day brought us back to civilization as VERY happy campers!!!!  The big burger at Fat Tui’s was also a huge bonus that we deserved.  We left the tramp car park and headed to Nelson where we have friends from Salt Lake who have moved here.  Megan and Andy offered us an empty house that they just purchased. I had my own yoga studio overlooking the Tasman Sea. We arrived and spent the next four nights GLAMPING!  We loved catching up with this family and hearing about their move and transition to this fabulous country.

Reasons why I still ♥ New Zealand:

Brilliant laundry concept.  Buy a key at any market, find a Liquid laundry center (they are everywhere in NZ), use your loaded key, do  your laundry and reload when you run out of money..  So easy, accessible, clean, and quick…makes traveling EZ

NO Tipping

Places:

Jan 27,28,29:  Abel Tasman National Park                                                              Jan 30,31 Feb 1,2:  Nelson

Accommodations:

F:  Watering Cove Campsite  (only 2 other parties, forested beach front)                                                        Sa:  Barks Bay Campsite (MANY people, young, loud backpackers a little too close for comfort.  However, beautiful beach spit.                                                          Su:  Peppers Lodge at Amarua  (4 star lodge with all the amenities including the wilderness and overlooking a wetlands)  A stunning place to have a beer and blisters……….                                                                                 M /T/W/Th:  Andy and Megans house in Nelson

Activities:

F/Sa/Su: Tramp Abel Tasman                                                                          M:  Water Taxi out/Drive to Nelson                                                                 T:   Mountain bike ride on Rabbit island/Mapua                                          W:  Wine Tour and Scenic drive through Marlborough Wine Region, Picton and Havelock.  Saint Clair, Cloudy Bay,  Forrest and Highlander Vineyards.  Saint Clair, our favorite, had an amazing Saugvignon Blanc.                     Th:  Rainy, rest day.  Tea, library for internet and a movie!!!! “Lion”  is amazing, inspiring and Dev Patel is hot!

 

 

Abel Tasman : Check.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were so happy to be home for the holidays.  We enjoyed family and friends but did NOT enjoy all the details we had to handle before heading out for Part 2 of our adventure.  We realized that real life at home is complicated and overloaded with details, necessary tasks and endless errands.  The travel life is the easy life.  While dreading the goodbyes to all those we love, we couldn’t wait to get back in the saddle and on the road.  Now, in New Zealand, we are free of mail, hassles, car issues, house issues, and necessary appointments.  Ahhh, life is good.

We did gain some wisdom on Part 1 of our trip. We packed lighter and more efficient for Part 2.  We plan to camp and cook to save money.  New Zealand and Australia will be the most expensive countries that we visit.  MINIMIZE and SIMPLIFY.  I will be writing less on the blog, but posting more photos.  I was stunned at how much time and energy it actually took to keep the blog up and running.  On that note, I can keep New Zealand really simple………We ♥ it here!

New Zealand:  Week 1  January 19-24

I am in love♥.  I have been here one week and I know that this country will be my favorite place, in the end.

Reasons why I ♥ you New Zealand:

1.  You are GREEN and LUSH.
2.  I have never seen so many hiking trails (tracks, as the KiWis call them).
3. So MANY free, clean and proper PUBLIC restrooms everywhere…no squatting allowed.
4. TrashFREE country                                                                                                                      

Th: Land in Auckland, fly to Christchurch,drive to Lyttleton
F/Sa/S:  Lyttleton                                                                                         M/T:  The Golden Bay, Takaka

***Lyttleton is a small, quaint port town.  Population of about 6000.  Chill energy with a strong community feel.  Good food, fun bars and surrounded by hills, rock, and a quiet port.  A really awesome place for folks who love the outdoors and physical activity.  Mountain biking, hiking (tramping as the KiWis call it), climbing, boating (sailing, jet skiing, kayaking, canoeing, SUP) are the most popular ways to stay fit.

***Takaka:  The Bohemian, hippie lifestyle is very prominent here.  Imagine a scene right out of the 60’s on Haight Ashbury…. but,very, very low key, laid back, peace, love and flowers sort of place.  Get your the tye dye balloon pants here….if you don’t have long dreads, you don’t fit in.  We are taking a trip back in time, but don’t have time to grow our own dreads.  We were fortunate to find a phenomenal, inexpensive, big Airbnb on the coast of the Tasman Sea.  Secluded, empty beach and solitude can be found here.♥

***The Golden Bay is situated on the coast of the Tasman Sea and stretches up around the South Island to the famed West Coast (windy, sand dunes, hilltop views, stunning stretches of beach).  This area is a MUST and offers up a lot of great short hikes to spectacular places and a well known pub (Mussel Inn).

Accommodations:                                                                                             Th/F:  Air B&B Lyttleton (Cromwell Street) 2 nights                                Sa/S:  Greg Jacks 2 nights (our Kiwi Friend)                                              M/T:  Takaka AirBnb on the beach

Activities:                                                                                                               Th: arrive/dinner/sleep                                                                                        F: Banks Penisula Drive/Akaroa
Sa: Lyttleton farmers market/climb/hike
S: trip plan/rainy day
M: Depart Lyttleton for Golden Bay on the northern coastline of the South Island. 8 hour drive.                                                                                        T:  Poharu area and climbing crag.  Climbing was difficult for me and just okay for Will.  We did not stay long.  Explored TaTa beach and hiked to the Harwoods Hole (incredible sink hole and great short hike through the forest)  Very scenic drive to get there.  Ended the day with a quick hike around Paynes Ford and scoped out the climbing, hiking and beautiful swimming hole.  This was a great day to unpack and wander……and a beautiful introduction to the New Zealand Coast. So much to see and do…so little time.  Looking forward to Week 2.